The listing for the Kicode Multi-Function bragged of its bench’s extended length, but at less than three feet – which seems to be significantly less than the average flat bench – it’s hard to imagine how short it could have been before. The Soozier Home Gym caught our eye with its small, 44-pound punching bag, which we thought might be a nice touch for young martial artists or amateurs who might be interested in putting on a pair of bag gloves for fitness, but it should be noted that this is by no means a bona fide heavy bag, and it’s unlikely to present a worthy target for any serious boxers. We also found a couple new options to include with these rankings. It would be great to see him start to embrace a new vision of the Amazonian power that Azzedine Alaia invested in women-the part that’s as much about the soul and the pulse of the brand, as it is about the body.This list still looked to be in pretty good shape, and we saw no major need to make any new omissions, except for in the case of the Hi-Mat Adjustable, which we decided to phase out due to availability concerns. Granted, it takes technical know-how to engineer different sizes. The narrowness of the casting excluded the embrace of curves that has been normalized by the young generation, and which they expect to see reflected back on runways. What the show missed out on was the joyful self-glorification of female bodies that is now a spectacular part of pop culture. Mulier is perhaps adding in a theoretical way to the frank show-your-body conversation that Casey Cadwallader has been pushing at Mugler, or Nensi Dojaka has been doing in her own way with lingerie dressing in London. “Naked dressing” has been having a long post-pandemic streak. The emotional pull and electricity always comes more from what a show gives off about how women want to frame themselves in social contexts. Women, however, rarely fall for technique as the primary selling-point in a garment. The tailoring was nipped to the narrowest of pencil skirts the taut knitwear engineered to expose the thonged bodysuits that are, of course, Alaia-central.įashion buffs will appreciate the meticulous labor that went into that, of course. Indeed ‘time’ was the overarching theme Mulier was talking about-in the sense of the time it had taken to mould and tailor the silhouettes and add obsessive details, “like 35 buttons on a coat.” You could see the time-consuming techniques lavished, say, on the opaque-sheer splicing of horizontal bands of strips of leather and gauzy fabric, winding in varying widths down a floor-length dress.
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The 21st-century set of questions for Mulier center more on how to handle the empathetic argument that Alaia always made for glorifying the physicality of womanhood how to claim it as his own, and make it relevant in his own time. These male-gaze luxury fashion tropes have a 50-year history that goes back as far as Yves Saint Laurent and Helmut Newton. Kinky fashion has its own long Parisian tradition-there’s nothing new in seeing the proposal of chic bourgeois women in immaculate tailoring who also happen to be displaying underwear.
For me, I always thought it was pure luxury to sit on that bridge and just look around at everything.” I found it the most beautiful view of Paris, because you look at the Grand Palais in one direction, Notre Dame the other, and you see the Eiffel Tower a little bit, just the tip of it. Parisian bridges have been co-opted as runways several times in the past couple of weeks, although Mulier hinted afterwards that it was chosen because it holds a sentimental memory for him. It wasn’t that the venue itself was so much of a surprise. “For me, that’s what it is about,” he declared afterward. It couldn’t have been more public-a strong contrast to the intimacy of his last presentation, which he held in his own apartment in Antwerp. Pieter Mulier’s Alaia show took place over a footbridge across the Seine as tourist boats passed beneath and onlookers clambered to watch from the walls of the Tuileries Gardens.
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